Meet Susie: 78 Years Young. Surfer Girl. Famous For Being Stoked.

There are people who surf, and there are people who live surfing.

Susie belongs firmly in the second camp.

At 78 years old, she's still paddling out at her home break in Southern California (SoCal), still chasing glassy waves, and still carrying the same excitement she felt as a twelve-year old girl watching the original Gidget movie for the very first time.

For this edition of Seashell Spirits, we chatted to Susie about lifelong adventures, surfing wisdom, and why her dream wave is still the one breaking at home.

When did you start surfing?

"I got to see the original Gidget movie, like in 1959, and I got the stoke immediately, not kidding. I was in San Diego with my aunts on a vacation. When I got home, I announced to my Mom and Dad, 'Hey, I wanna be a Surfer Girl!'

With no hesitation, they both said, 'OK!'

My Dad was a spontaneous dude, so after a few days he goes, 'Hey, let's go buy a surfboard!' I was like, 'Let's gooooo!'

How he knew where to go, I never asked. Mom had a VW Bug with a sunroof, drove me to the Ventura Pier, dropped me and the board off. I was by myself for the afternoon. I was like 12, I think.

I didn't know zip about surfing, only what I saw in the movie. Basically taught myself. Definitely the stoke kept me in the water all these years. Crazy, right? Ha!"

What's your favourite thing about surfing?

"The absolutely best thing now is I'm the same as everybody else in the water. Not an old lady, just a Surfer Girl! That's paramount when you're 78."

What's the most beautiful place you've ever surfed?

"In my teens, me, and my BFF would drive to all the fun surf spots in SoCal. I've never surfed outside of SoCal, but for me, my most beautiful place is my home break on a warm day with small, clean, glassy waves, with few other surfers in the water. Now that's beautiful! And one day, Waikiki would be cool too."

What's your advice for anyone thinking about starting?

"Make sure to find out the do's and don'ts, makes it so much easier to start. Also, stay outta the line-up, ya gotta earn it and have fun! Oh, and remember paddle, paddle, paddle!"

Where is your dream surf destination?

"I really have to say my dream surf sesh destination is always my home break. I'm just grateful to still be in the water and every sesh is a huge blessing!

My big dream destination is having that perfect break in heaven forever and ever, thank you, Jesus!"

Thanks for sharing your Seashell Spirit with us, Susie. Keep spreading the stoke. Follow Susie on Instagram here.

Ready for your next adventure?

Whether you're heading out for a surf, cold-water dip or coastal road trip, don't forget your post-ocean essentials.

1. Never struggle to get changed on the go: say hello to your mobile change room/drying station, aka the towelling robe
2. Snug drying robe for after/between swims – no need to get fully changed!
3. Royal feet treatment (super handy changing mat for when you're dipping in questionable places)

Now get off the internet and get outside.